![]() Next you’ll take a few shots at the center of the target, and you’ll likely see your shots off to the side of center. Then simply click on the “Calibrate” button from the Target Configuration dialog to get started. First, you’ll hang the supplied calibration target on your target frame in the center. By entering these values, you’ll ensure accurate shot placement data points regardless of whether you’re shooting through the center of the target frame, or towards the edges/corners. In order to enter the width and height of the target, just tap or click on the values shown and type in new values (in mm, not inches). In order perform these steps, you’ll launch what’s called “Target Configuration”: (click/tap to enlarge)Ībove is a screenshot from my Samsung Galaxy Tablet. ConfigurationĪ basic configuration for ShotMarker will consist of naming the target, setting the target width/height, and calibrating the target (aligning center of physical target to center of virtual target). That’s it! It doesn’t take long at all to setup the ShotMarker system. The ShotMarker web page (see IP address on back of access point) is accessed from a mobile device or laptop to verify that the target shows up.3.5mm cables are run between the sensors and the sensor hub.The antenna is screwed onto the sensor hub (can use optional extender).The sensor hub is mounted with velcro or screws (there are two screw cutouts on the back of the sensor hub).The sensors are attached to the mounts (set in place).Width and height (center to center) between each sensor bracket is carefully measured and written down.Be careful to observe the colors/placements, and to make sure diagonal measurements agree, a non-skewed rectangle is what you need. The sensor brackets (magnetic mounts) are screwed into the target frame.Once you have your target stand and target frame (for sensors) erected, install proceeds as follows: Here you can see my temporary 100 yard ShotMarker install with solar panel: This is great for 1000 yards, but I chose to make a smaller target frame for 100 yards since I’m hitting within a couple inches from my aiming point regardless of the rifle being used (OK, the AK-47 might hit 5″ away □ ). It’s important that these two target stands are separate so that the acoustic sensors don’t vibrate when the target is hit! The target frame (for sensors) shown above is about 4′ on each side. I’ve also added a solar panel which keeps the sensor hub charged, a GREAT setup! Behind the target frame is the target stand- it holds the aiming point(s) or target(s) being shot at during your range trip or competition. Note the stabilizing members running back from the frame which prevent the frame from moving in the wind. In the foreground you see the target frame used to support the sensors and the sensor hub. My 1000 yard target frame looks like this: While your devices are charging, you’ll want to start construction on your target frame. ![]() I use a 6-outlet USB wall brick and two Micro USB cables to charge them both at the same time. The first step in setup is to charge the sensor hub and the access point. Target Frames: Sensor Frame and Target Stand Sensor cables- standard 3.5mm audio cables and extenders (various lengths included, you only need 4 for install).Access Point (talks to target, connects to your mobile device via WiFi).Sensor hub with antenna (connects to sensors).Acoustic sensors and magnetic mounts (color coded).Pictured above: (clockwise from top-right) ShotMarker comes with everything you’ll need to use your e-target system except a mobile device (such as a tablet or phone), the target stand (target you are shooting), and the frame for the ShotMarker sensors (you easily make one from wood). This is important when exact shot placement is critical such as in a scored match. *Correction: When adjusting shot placement during calibration, you drag the “shots” to the location on the calibration target where shots hit (physically), *not* the center of the target (unless shots hit the exact center).
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